We really couldn't let Kalani leave Bali without ever having stepped a foot on a Balinese beach so made plans for three nights on the North coast, just West of Lovina (remarkably, this was also the first time Tim and I got in the water on Bali). We tied the trip in with a visit to a friend of Cok Bagus, who is keeping bees in Tembok, a couple hours East of Lovina (see Part VI for a some photos of that visit). We stayed at a sweet little hotel that was right on the water but far enough from Lovina itself that it was only local families and friends staying there (at least while we were there).
The coast on that side of Bali is very, very gradual with a high tide that grazed the wall in front of the hotel and a low tide that went out nearly 100m, leaving huge expanses of somewhat dirty beach to walk on in the evening. Because of that crazy tide, there wasn't really anything to see in the water near the hotel (we could see fishermen walking W.A.Y. out into the ocean with their poles) so on the first morning, we chartered a small boat (about $20) to take us to the reef a kilometer or so from the hotel. It was really fun. Some of the fish and other sea critters are familiar to anyone from Hawaii, but a ton are brand-new and exciting. It was fun to be out there with Kalani.
The second day we drove west until we got to Bali Barat National Park -- practically Java. I'd eaten something bad so was not feeling 100% (we had to stop the car for me to go vomit into a ditch on the way), but it was still really nice. We paid the multitude of fees required to get into the water in the National Park and hired a boat and guide (required) to take us out to Pulau Menganjan which is supposed to have the best diving in all of Bali (all told, it cost about $100 for the three of us to charter the boat and rent a snorkel for Kalani). They took us to two different areas along the coast of Pulau Menganjan, both of which were really nice. The water there drops off suddenly with a big old wall going down into the blue. Tim had a blast swimming up and down it (I wasn't clearing very well, so no depth for me, but at least I'd stopped puking).
Here's a video so that you can see some of the beauty:
The coast on that side of Bali is very, very gradual with a high tide that grazed the wall in front of the hotel and a low tide that went out nearly 100m, leaving huge expanses of somewhat dirty beach to walk on in the evening. Because of that crazy tide, there wasn't really anything to see in the water near the hotel (we could see fishermen walking W.A.Y. out into the ocean with their poles) so on the first morning, we chartered a small boat (about $20) to take us to the reef a kilometer or so from the hotel. It was really fun. Some of the fish and other sea critters are familiar to anyone from Hawaii, but a ton are brand-new and exciting. It was fun to be out there with Kalani.
The second day we drove west until we got to Bali Barat National Park -- practically Java. I'd eaten something bad so was not feeling 100% (we had to stop the car for me to go vomit into a ditch on the way), but it was still really nice. We paid the multitude of fees required to get into the water in the National Park and hired a boat and guide (required) to take us out to Pulau Menganjan which is supposed to have the best diving in all of Bali (all told, it cost about $100 for the three of us to charter the boat and rent a snorkel for Kalani). They took us to two different areas along the coast of Pulau Menganjan, both of which were really nice. The water there drops off suddenly with a big old wall going down into the blue. Tim had a blast swimming up and down it (I wasn't clearing very well, so no depth for me, but at least I'd stopped puking).
Here's a video so that you can see some of the beauty:
Did I mention the hotel was really nice? It wasn't very fancy, but the architecture was nice (Bali-style) and there was a small infinity pool to jump in when it got too hot to just sit around. And this adorable mangy puppy showed up on the first morning with a group of about 5 or 6 loud young men on scooters. When they left, the puppy was still there. He decided he loved us and started sleeping on my dive bag when we were away. I was trying to figure out a way I could possibly keep him (or find someone to) when the hotel owner came and took him -- said he'd found someone to adopt him. I hope it's a good family!
From the North Coast, we went back to Payangan and said our goodbyes, then spent Kalani's last night at a hotel not too far from the airport (Bali Paragon, same one we stayed in our first couple of nights in Bali).
Since his flight wasn't until 10pm we had time to go see a couple temples: Uluwatu and Sakenan Serangan Pura Dalem. I told Kalani repeatedly about how bad the monkeys at Uluwatu Temple are and warned him to keep a hand on his glasses. Of course, after all that I had one moment of abstraction (it was so bright I decided it was worth wearing my sunglasses as long as I kept ahold of them). I thought some tourist had shoved me, but it was a big male macaque jumping on my back. In my moment of shock, he got my glasses and proceeded to taunt me with them. I really should have taken a photo of him holding them over his eyes, but I was still hopeful that I might be able to sweet talk him into dropping them. No such luck. He took all the bribes offered by the Temple employees then made a dash for the cliffs. My favorite pair of Dragonz held tightly in one hand. So sad. I'd had them for over 5 years and not a scratch on them. I'm guessing that at this point they are nothing but scratches and bite marks :-(
Since his flight wasn't until 10pm we had time to go see a couple temples: Uluwatu and Sakenan Serangan Pura Dalem. I told Kalani repeatedly about how bad the monkeys at Uluwatu Temple are and warned him to keep a hand on his glasses. Of course, after all that I had one moment of abstraction (it was so bright I decided it was worth wearing my sunglasses as long as I kept ahold of them). I thought some tourist had shoved me, but it was a big male macaque jumping on my back. In my moment of shock, he got my glasses and proceeded to taunt me with them. I really should have taken a photo of him holding them over his eyes, but I was still hopeful that I might be able to sweet talk him into dropping them. No such luck. He took all the bribes offered by the Temple employees then made a dash for the cliffs. My favorite pair of Dragonz held tightly in one hand. So sad. I'd had them for over 5 years and not a scratch on them. I'm guessing that at this point they are nothing but scratches and bite marks :-(
| |
Then, way faster than it should have happened, it was time to take Kalani to the airport and say goodbye. We had a last dinner at Mie Gacoan (they are not kidding with their spice ratings, #6 is fire-breathing hot) then drove him to the airport. Bali security is complicated and we weren't allowed to accompany him to the check in (which led to a number of problems and a full night of stress, but it all worked out in the end). It was great having him here and I wish I could have kept him all summer long.