Getting from Bukit Lawang to Toba was a challenge! Lucky for us, we had Imran to help. There is a shared ride taxi that leaves at 8:30am and runs between the two places, sometimes adding stops along the way, depending on how many riders they have. Imran made arrangements for Tim to ride in the front seat and for Kalani and I to have the first row back (there are two rows of back seats). He even arranged for a guy on a motorcycle to meet us at our hotel and escort us to the taxi stand (our hotel was about a kilometer up a narrow path that only pedestrians and scooter riders could go on -- all cars had to park closer to the town center at the bottom of the hill). So we were, relatively speaking, in comfortable seating which was nice because what was supposed to be a 6-or so hour drive ended up taking over 12 hours (more on that later). There were six tourists besides us -- too many for one car, so the two going to Medan (one of the stops on the way to Toba if you're unlucky) plus two others going to Toba got told to wait on the second car. The Indonesians running the taxi didn't speak a lot of English and the tourists spoke no Indonesian, so there were some worries and stress before we even started off. I tried to explain that it was being worked out, but too many tourists read too many blogs about how Indonesians are going to scam you, so I'm not sure the second group was buying it although the couple who'd walked in with us seemed to understand. I was quite glad not to be going in their car since it's not fun to start a journey with unhappy companions).
Up until this point traffic had been a little slow, but not painfully so. But this was Idul Fitri weekend and the roads were beginning to fill up. We made it about 40 minutes after picking up the Brit when the driver announced it was lunch time (it was now about 2pm and we'd all thought we'd be to the lake by 3 or 4pm but we still hadn't realized how impossible that time line now was)
Our first view of the lake was not until sunset. It was stunning. The driver stopped for a cigarette (he was looking knackered in the front seat, so I'm glad he did). No one could believe he would stop when we were still in so much of a hurry, but the view was superb and it was nice to stretch legs (and by this time I was sitting in the middle of the middle seat that had a butt-numbing bar under the cushion and I was glad for the dart across the street and leg-stretch)
When we finally doubled back down to the docks it was nearly 7:30. Our car was met by a gaggle of people with a woman who assessed the situation then came to my window to talk to me. She could get us a boat to Samosir Island. Normal ferry fare is Rp 15,000 per person, but we would need to pay Rp 50,000/person. I leaned backwards to relay this bit of information to the crew. What? Rp 50,000! That was crazy!
Wait. how much is that? Use your app. Wait. Is that $3.50?
Yes, I explain. A full ferry charges $1/person but we were going to have to charter a whole boat. $3.50/person, Rp 350,o00 for the charter. Split that 7 ways and we're looking at Rp 50,000 per person.
Suddenly moods lightened and everyone perked up. $3.50 each to charter a boat? Great! Everyone was all-in.
Happy ending of story