The drive to BR and MM Hills is pretty long but in between the areas where I need to be are places I'd like to be. We were, however, with a Driver. As a Driver he is a Getter-From-Here-To-There. He is not a dawdler in the places in between and so most of the tantalizing places I saw were just glimpses through a speeding car window.
Typical well-loaded truck as seen through the side window of our car
Tantalizing agroforestry fields both irrigated and rain-fed shot past. I kept saying things like "remember that they're growing coconut and banana together," and "look! coconut and areca" and we'd all comment when a particularly overloaded truck or a beautiful ox-drawn cart zipped past. We did, however, have the opportunity to do a few things along the route and I'll talk about those here.
Fair warning
On the drive to BRT our driver suggested we stop to look at some waterfalls, so we stopped at Gaganachukki to see the falls. The falls were spectacular, as waterfalls usually are, but even better were the signs warning about the inherent danger of being on a cliff near a waterfall. See my pictures for more fun signs at the falls
Walking towards the temple stairs
We got to BRT well-ahead of the time that I thought we would (suffice it to say that our driver drove REALLY fast) and since I had said we wouldn't be needed lunch, there was none at the field station when we got there. We decided to walk around a find a restaurant. Best-laid-plans and all that. We didn't find a restaurant (settled on chips and sodas) but accidentally wandered into the "foothills" of Biligiri Rangaswamy temple (can a temple have foothills?). The temple is carved and built up in the rocks that rise up in this area. It overlooks the forest and Soliga villages and the flat area below it is designed for arriving pilgrims. Both sides of the arrival area have these interesting structures (lining either side of the arrival area in the picture above) made mostly of carved stone. Although we had no idea what they were for while we were wandering around we learned later (I think I understood correctly) that they are for the pilgrims to stay in when visiting the temple. There was a big bus from Bangalore parked there and tons of people hanging out.
The front side of the mobile temple was G-rated
At the far end of the flat area was a mobile wooden temple on an ox cart (with hook ups for 4 oxen to pull). The carvings on it were mostly highly detailed humans and gods, including some rather graphic (dare I say lewd?) poses that you'd have do a whole lotta yoga before you could contort yourself that way
We, of course attracted no end of attention and it wasn't long before a band had joined us for a photo shoot, then pretty soon had Tim and the boys with drums roped to them as they sang and banged along. Once the ice was opened that way a whole line of people came up wanting us to take their picture (they never ask for the picture since there's no way to get it to them, just want the experience of having it done). See photos below:
We, of course attracted no end of attention and it wasn't long before a band had joined us for a photo shoot, then pretty soon had Tim and the boys with drums roped to them as they sang and banged along. Once the ice was opened that way a whole line of people came up wanting us to take their picture (they never ask for the picture since there's no way to get it to them, just want the experience of having it done). See photos below:
First things first. Getting ready for the temple.
The next day we got up early and went for a drive further up the mountain to see what we could see. Unlike the bear who did the same thing, we saw all sorts of cool creatures and beautiful forest. There were a lot of deer and wild pig but my favorite sighting was a giant malabar squirrel. I, of course, wasn't fast enough with the camera. But it was awesome, none-the-less. The birds while no more photographable were also memorable. Also, of note: it was the first time any of us had been cold since getting here. Brrr. It felt like Volcano!
After that we decided that we should actually see the temple since we were there so walked back up before heading out for MM Hills. Before heading up the long stairway we purchased a bag full of stuff for prasad and a fistful each of what smelled like copal that we put into a fire at the base of the steps. All three boys were encouraged to get the proper markings, we left our shoes at the base of the stairs, and then we went up.
After that we decided that we should actually see the temple since we were there so walked back up before heading out for MM Hills. Before heading up the long stairway we purchased a bag full of stuff for prasad and a fistful each of what smelled like copal that we put into a fire at the base of the steps. All three boys were encouraged to get the proper markings, we left our shoes at the base of the stairs, and then we went up.
Did I mention that we had to go up? (and up, and up)
About halfway up there was a smaller shrine that everyone was stopping at, praying, lighting incense, and giving prasad. The family in front of us had several bananas that they put out as prasad. Immediately upon seeing this a troop of monkeys moved in closer (wouldn't you?). One of the males came forward and sat above the shrine. The father, upon taking back the bananas from the shrine reached up with one and handed it to the very happy monkey. We gave one of ours to him as well. I thought it apropos that the deity on the side of this shrine appeared to be Hanuman.
View from up at the temple
A boy about Kekai's age joined with us for most of the time we were at the temple and seemed to delight in showing us around. Once he learned that Kekai was fascinated by the monkeys he spent a great deal of time searching for the cutest macaques to show to Kekai. Then when Tim and Kalani were slow to come, he indicated that Kekai and I should follow him into the temple to see the image of Rangaswami. Unfortunately for me, he took us in the out. The guards had no problem with the two boys scampering in but were a little freaked out by the giant white woman and kicked us out when they saw me.
No matter. A bit later we found the entrance and went in the proper way. I gave my prasad to the priests who smashed my coconut and gave it back to me along with a handful of flowers. The temple was beautiful, but, by far, the best part were Lord Rangaswami's giant sandals. There was a brand-new pair of golden colored ones in a case and a more used multi-colored pair outside the case. My understanding is that he uses these sandals when he walks around the mountains and that local people replace them when they feel they have been worn out.
No matter. A bit later we found the entrance and went in the proper way. I gave my prasad to the priests who smashed my coconut and gave it back to me along with a handful of flowers. The temple was beautiful, but, by far, the best part were Lord Rangaswami's giant sandals. There was a brand-new pair of golden colored ones in a case and a more used multi-colored pair outside the case. My understanding is that he uses these sandals when he walks around the mountains and that local people replace them when they feel they have been worn out.
There was a group of men dancing at the temple which was pretty interesting. It is a wild and crazy dance in which the men stand around in a circle while others dance in the center. At some point various men are drawn into the dance from among the onlookers. I don't know much about it except that the temple is dedicated to Vishnu and I believe this style of dancing is something exclusive to this part of India.
Then it was time to go on to MM Hills. We walked down the long staircase, said good-bye to the sadhu and I paid to have Kekai's new friend get his bindi too.
Our time at MM Hills was mostly work-related but we also spent some time at Male Mahadeshwaram Temple. Narayanan (from ATREE) took us there on our second night there. It was (I think) the first Shiva temple we'd been to and it was beautiful. The anteroom for Sri Mahadeshwaram was plated in silver and the temple itself was also spectacular. At night the "golden temple" was taken out of the temple and carried in a circle around the temple while the priests called out prayers and the faithful followed along singing and lighting incense. AND I like that Sri Mahadeshwaram is depicted as almost childlike and riding on a tiger. What the kids liked best was that you could rent what looked like a silver baseball bat that allowed you to hit the holy gong at the temple. You can see people carrying them below (no, I did not give in to the pleas to rent one).
one of the things that really got me was the monkeys on the mountain roads on the way to the temples. They were all over the sides (and center!) of the road and I was sure we were going to hit one at some point. After several miles of driving these roads I finally understood why there were so many: the car in front of us opened a window and poured cooked rice onto the center of the road as it passed a troop of monkeys. You have to wonder if people are trying to help the monkeys or get them killed......
Coracles at Barachukki falls
On the way home our driver took us to Barachukki falls. We thought it would be a lookout point like Gaganachukki falls but it turned out to be a swimming and boating spot. Tim was worried about getting his camera wet so he stayed on land (or rather, in a tree) but the boys and I hired a coracle to take us to the falls. It was fun and wet.
When we got back we all forded a knee-deep stream and went over to a second set of falls where Tim stripped down to his skivvies (when I looked over and saw him standing in his BVDs I was horrified, but he did the equivalent of "look Ma, all the other boys are doing it," and it was true. A whole river full of men in their undies). A bunch of guys were sitting in the spray of the falls but Tim wanted to outdo them. He climbed up to the next water drop, hung out under the heavy spray, then leaped into the pool below. Everyone was suitably impressed. I was mostly using his camera so, you can see better pictures on his photo blog.
On the way back across the stream we got some help by a well-meaning local. As Kalani put it, "I was fallen into the river!" and that went for all of us who were helped. The help across the stream led to a very wet Mom, Kalani, and Kekai.
When we got back we all forded a knee-deep stream and went over to a second set of falls where Tim stripped down to his skivvies (when I looked over and saw him standing in his BVDs I was horrified, but he did the equivalent of "look Ma, all the other boys are doing it," and it was true. A whole river full of men in their undies). A bunch of guys were sitting in the spray of the falls but Tim wanted to outdo them. He climbed up to the next water drop, hung out under the heavy spray, then leaped into the pool below. Everyone was suitably impressed. I was mostly using his camera so, you can see better pictures on his photo blog.
On the way back across the stream we got some help by a well-meaning local. As Kalani put it, "I was fallen into the river!" and that went for all of us who were helped. The help across the stream led to a very wet Mom, Kalani, and Kekai.
There is a big agitation occurring now because of water rights and some age-old treaties that are perceived as unfair to the Kannada-speaking (Karnataka) people. It's a fascinating issue and at some point I'll put on my professor hat and write about it, but for now, Google "Cauvary Dispute" if you're interested in learning more. Huge protests erupted while we were away and the main road back to Bangalore was closed off at the river. We took an alternate route, but it turned out that was closed as well by a smaller protest. It was a rather interesting situation. We came upon the line of cars and simply drove on the shoulder to the head of the line where large trucks were parked perpendicular to the road to keep it closed. At one point they moved a truck to allow a news van to enter the protest area which led to a stream of cars swarming the open spot. They got the hole closed down pretty quickly but, in doing so, opened another, slightly less stable (big ditch) opening. We went through that one and congratulated ourselves on having made it with such a short wait. But a few minutes down the road we ran into more stopped cars and a large number of protesters sitting on the pavement and rallying with loudspeakers. After awhile they started to march and we followed along with the rest of the traffic in this area. When we got to a village, the cars turned off but we were approached by a police officer who told us that unless we were protesting we couldn't pass this point. He positioned our car to block the road to the village and we waited some more. After he was well-gone, someone else came up and told us we should just go, so we did. I don't think this village had ever seen so much traffic.
We stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch which had some delicious non-veg food (crazy how good chicken tastes these days). The kids, however, were most impressed by the table of drunk men who came in after us and started puking all over the place.....
We stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch which had some delicious non-veg food (crazy how good chicken tastes these days). The kids, however, were most impressed by the table of drunk men who came in after us and started puking all over the place.....